The Wine Observer

When To Send It Back and Other Pearls

In his farewell column, our Master Sommelier offers additional tips for an optimal wine experience.

A refreshing break from the routine.

Paul M. Karpecki, OD, FAAO

Depending on the subject, sometimes a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. Fortunately, in the world of wine, a little knowledge goes a long way. In this, my last “Wine Observer” column, I will share various wine insights that will be sure to impress others or simply give you more confidence the next time you are ordering or serving wine.

When to Send a Wine Back

Happily, with many wines being consumed earlier and even the advent of screw caps to some wines, there is less chance of ordering a bad wine at a restaurant that you send back. That being said, the best way to determine if a wine is spoiled and should be sent back is through its smell.

Three odors mean a wine is not drinkable: the smell of rotten vegetables or rotten eggs, a smell of acetone or vinegar, or a smell of a damp carpet, sometimes described as a wet dog. Any of these scents mean the wine was stored improperly, is way past it’s time, was poorly made, which is rare, or has been tainted by a chemical. Any other smells — even ones like petroleum — may seem off, but are not an indication of a spoiled wine that should be sent back.

Using Your Senses

Speaking of scents, the best way to enjoy a wine is think of the acronym FEW: fruit, earth and wood. FEW can be applied to both the wine’s aromas and taste. Most new world wines have more fruit, also known as fruit forward. Old world (France, Italy, Germany and Spain) wines are earthier, although this is starting to change. The wood scent is an indication of the oaking process, when wines are placed in oak barrels to impart flavors and add complexity. Compare the taste of that wine to see if it is consistent with the bouquet or aroma.

Another thing to look for is the fullness of the wine. I liken this to milk — the difference between whole milk and 2% vs. skim milk. The appropriate fullness of a wine depends upon the varietal in question.

For example, a quality wine can be light — if that wine is a pinot grigio or another varietal that should be light. A good wine in the chardonnay or cabernet grouping, on the other hand, should be more full.

Finally, see how long the wine flavor lingers after you drink it. A lingering flavor is often a sign of a higher quality wine. Combine all these variables and you can get a real sense of the wine, its quality and unique characteristics.

Tasting a Wine

When tasting wine, be sure to cover all areas of on your tongue so the wine hits all the taste buds. People who simply throw back a glass of wine may only reach the bitter taste receptors in the back of the tongue, and for that reason may not be able to appreciate wine. Allow the wine to cover the front of your tongue, which houses the sweetness taste buds, and the outer edges that have the sour or acidity taste buds. Doing this will let you better determine the taste of the wine and allow a greater appreciation of its unique qualities.

The Tannin Question

The best way I have learned to determine if a wine is too young or the tannins are too high is to push the wine into your lower inner front lip. If you feel a pulling, tightness or gripping sensation, it is likely too tannic or too young and requires decanting. It’s also an indication to keep other bottles you purchased of this wine in good storage for a while longer. For that reason, I often buy a minimum of two of every cellar-worthy wine so that I still have another bottle if I happened to open one too soon.

Decanting

Decanting should occur on any of three occasions. First, if you have a wine that is too young or too tannic, placing it into a decanter exposes more of the wine surface of to air, allowing it to open quicker. A highly tannic wine or one that was opened too young and should have been cellared longer may require two or more hours of decanting time. (Keep in mind that only about 1% to 2% of all wines require cellaring or aging; the other 98% usually get worse with aging.) However, most wines require just 30-60 minutes of decanting.

The second occasion is when you have an old wine. Old wines need to be decanted, but not left to open up over time as I described. In fact, an old wine left exposed to the air in a decanter could turn bad quickly. The reason to decant an old wine is to prevent the sediment — particles from the wine skins, seeds, stems, etc., that can accumulate in a wine — from getting into the wine glass. Sediment is often bitter tasting. Decanting leaves sediment in the shoulder of the wine bottle or in a strainer as the liquid alone goes into the decanter.

The third reason to decant a wine is simply because you like the elegance of the decanter and the presentation. However, the first two are required reasons to help improve the wine.

It’s About Enjoyment

If you want to really get into enjoying wine, smell as many fruits, vegetables and even mushrooms, or the earth after a rain so that the next time you notice that scent in a wine, you can tell what it is. Raspberry, cherry, vanilla, chocolate are scents often found in wine somehow through the fermentation process, even though only grapes are used in making wine. Smelling these fruits when you purchase them at the grocery store will help solidify the smell better. All of these little tactics help in picking up nuances of wine.

Finally, never take wine too seriously. It is meant to be enjoyed in moderation and to celebrate life, friends and special occasions. Use a few of these insights to gain a better appreciation of the world of wine.

These few wine pearls will separate you from 99% of all people who drink wine. Enjoy all life has to offer, drink in moderation and celebrate the many blessings surrounding us. Cheers. OM