The Wine Observer

Fall Wines: Time to Get Earthy

A refreshing break from the routine.

The fall is an interesting time of year for wines as it is a time of great anticipation of the harvest, of diligent calculations to ensure the grapes are fully ripe but also avoiding a late rainfall that could dilute them or an early frost that could halt progression and change the concentration of the wines produced. It is also a celebrated time as many wineries hold events around the crush. (Although most grape crushing is now completed via electronic wine presses, there are still some grape-stomping events that take place in the wine country.) And it is also a time when foliage changes colors, the temperature cools and the air takes on an earthy smell.

This earthiness is also something I look for in my fall wine selections. It just feels good to sit outside, watch the beautiful change of colors, smell the air and enjoy a glass or two of an equally aromatic or earthy wine. So with the fall I find my palate preferring red wines again, though there are also some great whites for those who don't like reds or cannot drink them.

Whites After Labor Day

When selecting fall white wines compared to whites for the hot summer, consider a more full-bodied wine. I find the full-bodied wines in the heat of the summer are too much and not refreshing, but they certainly are ideal in the fall. Full bodied refers to the “weight” of the wine in your mouth. That is, how full or heavy does it feel when you drink it or keep it in your mouth for a few seconds before swallowing? Another way of putting it is if the wine feels thick or thin, or how oily or watery it feels. A great analogy is the difference between skim milk and cream.

The heavier white wines (although some experts would consider the heaviest white wines as medium bodied compared to very heavy reds), would include a buttery chardonnay. Some of the best in this category are Kistler, Rombauer, Chateau St. Jean, Mer Soleil from Caymus, Miner, Ferrari Carano reserve, Matanzas Creek and even an inexpensive organic chardonnay called Bonterra.

But perhaps my favorite fall wines are the wines from the Northern Rhone Valley. This includes the grape Viognier, as well as Roussanne and Marsanne. The Northern Rhone region includes the Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph regions, where Roussane and Marsanne, which are often blended together, hail from. The northern Rhone varietals are also occasionally made in other parts of the world, such as the United States, Australia, Spain and even Switzerland.

Viognier, also made in all of those countries, is another grape originating in the Rhone Valley of France in a region called Condrieu. It is the only grape permitted there. A very aromatic wine, Viognier is known for its floral aromas. It is truly one of the most aromatic of all wines in the world (along with Riesling and Muscat). Notes of apricots and pears often go along with the floral bouquet. Although Condrieu wines are often meant to age, few other Viognier wines from around the world should be aged. Those wonderful aromas will fade with time.

Other great white wines for the season include pinot gris from Oregon, the Okanagan Valley of British Columbia or Alsace, France. I would also have to include Riesling, as good wines in this variety have nice complexity and incredible aromas similar to that of viognier. If it's a good maker such as from Dr. Loosen, Domaine Zind Humbrecht, Hugel, Domaine Schlumberger, it can be one of the best wines of the season.

A Season for Reds

although there are many great red wines that make the transition from summer to fall such as Beaujolais, which uses the Gamay grape, I tend to like more earthy and mediumbodied wines for this time of year. Here are some of the best:

• Pinot noir. The best wine selections would have to include pinot noir from these specific regions of California: Santa Rita Hills, Santa Maria, Coastal Sonoma and Russian River Sonoma. I also must include the Willamette Valley of Oregon, which makes some of my all-time favorites, including wines from Domaine Drouhin, Domaine Serene, Ponzi, Stoller and many others. The Central Otago of New Zealand is also a gem if one can find it, because the makers limit distribution outside of New Zealand (Fenton Road or Mount Difficulty are amazing). And of course the home of pinot noir, where it has been in production for well over 700 years, is Burgundy, France.

• Big reds. If, however, you prefer a larger red wine, consider another Rhone Valley option such as a syrah from the same regions as mentioned above with roussanne and marsanne. Or even Southern Rhone, where you would find Chateaneuf du Pape. Garnacha from Spain is another option. A Nero D’Avola from Sicily would also work great, as would a red zinfandel. Some of the best red zinfandels to try are A. Rafanneli, Rosenblum, Ravenswood, Seghesio, Storybook and Turley. If you prefer more full-bodied red wines in the fall, consider one of the red zins listed above.

Fall is one of the most beautiful times of the year, especially here in Kentucky. Make it a point to savor the season, whether you are a wine drinker or not. And as you observe the sights and smells of the fall including the smell of fallen leaves, earth notes and the cooler temperatures, put the same senses into play when enjoying a glass or two of these fall wine suggestions. Cheers! OM